Lix BMX

Re-Covering a Seat

A few friends and folk who’ve seen my build diaries have asked for some step by step how-tos on my methods for restoring and refinishing various parts. I recently re-covered a rare vintage Kashimax Five-Gold Diamondback seat and took the opportunity to take a few photos along the way. I’m sure there are other methods and materials that might work equally as well, this is the way that I’ve found works best for me. I hope others find it helpful…

Here’s the seat with its original suede cover, torn and worn through to the nylon below…

Vintage Kashimax seat before re-covering — step 1Vintage Kashimax seat before re-covering — step 2Vintage Kashimax seat before re-covering — step 3Vintage Kashimax seat before re-covering — step 4

Removing the old cover, peeling the suede from the nylon, starting from the undersides…

Peeling old suede cover from seat — step 5Peeling old suede cover from seat — step 6

The old suede cover, removed and set aside to use as a template for cutting out the new cover…

Old suede cover removed as template — step 7

Rubbing off the old glue with turps so that the new glue will have a smooth surface and good adherence…

Removing old glue with turps — step 8

Using a palette knife to scrape off the last of the old glue from the tight spots before a final rub with the turps rag…

Scraping remaining glue with palette knife — step 9

Clean and dry and ready for fresh glue…

Seat clean and ready for new glue — step 10Seat clean and ready for new glue — step 11

Re-covering supplies: Scissors, palette knife, white pen, UHU Contact Power Glue (my favourite contact adhesive for re-covering — it’s clear, easy to apply, no overspray, no mess), Pigskin Split suede, replacement decals…

Re-covering supplies laid out — step 12

Pigskin Split suede — the perfect fine grain, light weight, pliable suede for covering bike seats. Available from Birdsall Leather…

Pigskin Split suede material — step 13

Using the white pen to trace around the old cover, lying flat against the new suede, adding about 5mm extra wiggle room before cutting it out…

Tracing old cover as template onto new suede — step 14

Applying the contact adhesive to the suede, leaving about a 15mm gap around all the edges. This way I can focus initially on covering just the top of the seat, without glue on the suede that will be tucked underneath prematurely sticking to anything…

Applying contact adhesive to suede — step 15

Applying the contact adhesive to every inch of the top, right down the sides, but not underneath (yet)…

Applying contact adhesive to seat foam top — step 16

Leaving the glue on both the seat and the suede dry for about 3–5 min…

Glue drying on both surfaces — step 17

When the glue is touch dry on both surfaces, it’s time to apply the cover. It’s a good idea to have a rag handy from this point on to wipe off any excess glue that gets on your hands so you don’t mark the suede…

Applying cover to seat — step 18Applying cover to seat — step 19Applying cover to seat — step 20Smoothing and pressing cover — step 21Smoothing and pressing cover — step 22Tucking suede under the edges — step 23Tucking suede under the edges — step 24Tucking suede at nose of seat — step 25Gluing suede underside — step 26Gluing suede underside — step 27Trimming excess suede — step 28Trimming excess suede — step 29Trimming excess suede — step 30Applying replacement decal — step 31Applying replacement decal — step 32Decal applied to seat — step 33Decal applied to seat — step 34Finished re-covered seat — step 35Finished re-covered seat — step 36Finished re-covered seat — step 37Finished re-covered seat on bike — step 38Finished re-covered seat on bike — step 39Finished re-covered seat on bike — step 40Finished re-covered seat on bike — step 41